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Sat. 10/18
Uneventful flights aboard Amer.Air 300s, divided by the usual hectic plane change confusion in ultra
busy Miami airport. Once ensconced in the lush Hotel Cariari at 7PM, we lost no time in enjoying our
first Costa Rican meal aided and abetted by a 1/1 happy hour in honor of the World Series.
The local cerveza is very good.
Sun. 10/19
A lovely buffet breakfast awaited us alongside the inviting pool and tropical vegetation, serenaded by
brilliantly colored birds in their cages. After the usual program orientation, we were taken by bus
for a tour of downtown San Jose. I must say it is a big disappointment. Considering the high living
standard purported to be in CR, the streets are shabby, most buildings nondescript at best, and
certainly un-inviting. Despite this, we discovered several gems – a small but excellent collection
of ancient art and sculpture of the region housed in a former fortress, the GOLD MUSEUM, as
interesting for its amazing architecture as its grand collection of pre Columbian hammered golden
artifacts, and finally, St. JOSE CATHEDRAL, unpretentious on the outside, yet extraordinarily
beautiful inside.
Back at our hotel, we had a slight mishap. I plugged the in room coffee machine
into an outlet in the bathroom (only one available), and as the coffee brewed, the light above the
sink exploded sending shards of glass all over the sink and floor, knocking out the electric circuit.
Two grinning young men were sent to repair, replace and clean up. Later, we were awarded the
opportunity to attend 4PM mass in English at a pretty little chapel at another hotel just
minutes from ours. A marvelous dinner this evening was celebrated at a family home high on
a hillside overlooking the lights of San Jose. As we dined, torrents of rain cascaded down,
the first of many such showers we experienced in this rainy season.
Mon., 10/20
Our destination today is the POAS VOLCANO, part of the chain of volcanic mountains that bisects
the country from north to south. The drive up the snaking road to the national park takes from
city valley to lush tropical vegetation at 8,000’.The road winds thru farming communities to
banana and coffee plantations, to dairy farms, each at its appropriate altitude, with the
vegetation changing accordingly. En route, we spotted a sloth rolled into a ball and sleeping
on a tree branch. It looked like a ball of shaggy hair. The mile wide crater of POAS VOLCANO
still spouts gas emissions and an occasional spout of a geyser.
By incredible luck, the hazy
mist parted just as we approached the crater, allowing us several minutes of perfect visibility
of the 984’deep cauldron. Steam arose from the cerulean blue caldera. Then, just as quickly, the
misty fog swept over us, once again shrouding this awesome sight. On our return down the mountain,
we stopped for lunch. No sooner had we exited the bus when the heavens opened up with the most
intense rainstorm I’ve ever experienced, ending a half hour later just as abruptly as it began.
Tues. 10/21
On a beautiful clear morning we head north on the Pan American Hwy., turning off into the lush hills
to the small town of GRECIA. Typical of the region’s small towns, it is a busy, friendly, laid back place.
The local market offers vegetables and fruits so appealing I am ready to move here for this alone.
As usual, a central park is presided over by a cathedral. This unusual church was constructed of steel
in 1838, and is unusually attractive with colorful native art in its bright interior.
In SARCHI, a thriving arts center, we observe local artisans producing furniture and traditional
colorful CARRETAS (decorated wooden ox carts). We are also prompted to spend some serious money.
The village square in the town of ZARCERO boasts a delightful topiary garden, where the shrubs are
imaginatively sculpted into people, animals and amorphous arches. The beautiful cathedral is
bedecked with gorgeous floral arrangements in almost every nook and cranny. There are so many
flowers the overall effect is breathtaking.
We continue north as the stunning scenery gradually
changes from mountainous to lowland plains to the town of LA FORTUNA where we check into the
HOTEL ARENAL PARAISE, with an unobstructed view of the ARENAL VOLCANO, awakened from a long dormancy
in 1968. Our lodgings are in individual log cabins, rustic but comfortable. We enjoy a dip in the
several pools before being pelted with rain that continues on and off during the night.
Continue...
This trip to Costa Rica was made October 18 – 31, 2003 by a New York State couple.
Your comments are welcome.
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