|
Fri-Sat. 3/7-8
Our flight from JFK was delayed one hour, but with the aid of strong tail winds, we easily made up for that
time and arrived in Madrid at 7:30AM local time. Despite jet lag, we took advantage of this beautiful Saturday,
settled into the Gaudi Hotel and walked to the huge PRADA museum to view priceless artwork for an hour or so.
Luckily we left before the noonday lines waiting for entrance (slowed by elaborate security measures as everywhere)
twisted round the block. Close by we discovered a Naval museum. Never to be missed, we found it larger than
expected, and overflowing with wonderful ship models and other naval paraphernalia. Best of all, entrance
fees for all museums are suspended today for seniors. This afternoon, we were taken for a panoramic bus
tour of this elegant city bejewelled with an abundance of fountains.
A soccer game was scheduled at the
stadium and it seemed all of Spain was queuing up to attend. Busses were parked in the center of a wide
thoroughfare 3 deep and blocks long bearing more and more soccer fans. We had hoped to attend 7PM mass at
nearby beautiful St. Joseph’s Church, but got more than we bargained for as we witnessed two weddings
(one a mass) in the church packed with elegantly adorned attendees. A beautiful experience.
Sun. 3/9
A morning’s drive took us to the historic EXTRAMADURA REGION of Spain and the town of TRUJILLO. Our
accommodations for 3 nights are at the Hotel Melia De Trujillo, a former convent of San Antonio. We walked
the steep, well worn cobbled streets of town to the CONVENTO DE LA CORIA where guest lecturer Mervyn Samuel
gave a mine boggling all inclusive talk on the convoluted history of this region and the explorers and
adventurers it produced. This former Franciscan convent, purged of its nuns at a time of religious persecution
in the 18th century, is still in the process of restoration. It is built into the original town wall, and
affords magnificent views of the countryside below. We enjoyed a catered paella lunch at the convent.
Later, our guide took us on another walking (climbing) tour of the monuments of Trujillo. Most outstanding
is the ancient castle/fortress set high above the city, originally built by the Arabs and later taken over
by the Romans. From its ramparts is spread a panoramic view of the city and environs. Everywhere in the
town, on high perches above the church steeples and rooftops, are stork nests, with the elegant birds in
attendance to their chicks. We also visited the 15th century family home and museum of the famous PIZZARO
family before a lovely dinner at out hotel.
Mon. 3/10
There is a 60 mile drive through the lovely pastoral countryside, colored a bright green thanks to recent
heavy rains, and on to the steep, hilly terrain towards GUADALOUPE. We stop first at the former prayer
hermitage that overlooks the valley, where once devoted travelers stopped to pray, rest, and be
replenished by the monks, as they made their pilgrimage to the MONASTERY OF GRADALOUPE. This huge edifice –
monastery/church/parador/museum was initially constructed in the 15th Cent. and housed 100 or so
St.Geranimus monks for several hundred years before it was forcibly abandoned. 100 years later,
in early 1900’s, Franciscan monks returned to take it over, and remain to this day. It is the home
of a “Black Madonna”, one of only 7 in Europe today, and the artwork, array of hand embroidered vestments,
religious vessels and books, and priceless objets d/arte (gifts of the nobility) are staggering.
The several cloisters within the walls are places of peace and tranquility. Afterwards, we visited
the oldest part of the village, narrow decrepit houses with wooden balconies overflowing with flowers,
and enjoyed a much too elaborate lunch at the lovely Guadaloupe parador. Our weather has been marvelous
so far – cool mornings giving way to warm, sunny afternoons. We returned to trujillo and attended
7:30 PM mass at the church of St. Martin. Later, our group was presented with a private short concert
played on the rare 250 year old baroque organ in the church.
Tu. 3/11
The principal city of the Province of Extramadura, CACERES, is less than an hour’s drive from Trujillo,
through cattle and sheep farmland. The walled “old city”, since 1986 a designated World Heritage site,
rests on a location originally founded by Romans in 34 BC, flourished under Arab domination in the mid
12th Cent. and retaken by Christians in 1229. Internal fighting between families was finally subdued
by Ferdinand and Isabella in the 15th Cent. Original fortress walls and the many styles of original
architecture make this one of the best preserved sites of its period.
We walked to the 13th-16th Cent.
Church of Santa Maria with its splendid cedar wood main altarpiece, depicting scenes from the lives of
Jesus and Mary, and Casa de Carvajal, which contains a wealth of crafts, natural resources and history
of the area, and also harbors a one thousand year old fig tree in its courtyard. The CASA DE LAS VELETAS,
a 15th Cent. Moorish fortress, now houses the Provincial Museum, an archaeological gem, with a well
preserved Hispano-Arab cistern from the old fortress dating from the 12th Cent. or perhaps earlier.
Another marvelous lunch at a local parador preceded our return to Trujillo.
Wed. 3/12
MERIDA was founded about 25BC and eventually grew to a prosperous town of 40,000 inhabitants. The Roman
ruins found here are considered perhaps the most impressive and monumental remnants of Roman heritage in
Iberia. In a highly protected area, the elliptical shaped ampitheatre, built about 8BC to accommodate
15,000, and the impressive 600 person theatre, dated 16BC, with its prominent statue of CERES, goddess
of the harvest, are remarkably well preserved. Elsewhere in the city we would see the Roman Forum and
Temple of Diana, both under intensive archaeological scrutiny.
MUSEO NACIONAL DE ARTE ROMANO, designed
by Rafael Mones Valles, is an exceptional building, evocative of true Roman architecture, housing a
marvelous collection of exhibits. It was completed in 1986, erected over an interesting group of ruins
which are conserved in crypt. After a marvelous lunch at Parador of Merida, we viewed a large portion
of a Roman aqueduct and an original Roman bridge now designated for pedestrian travel only. In PORTUGAL,
we enter the ALENTEJO REGION – a rural area of vineyards, olive groves, cork plantations and wheat fields.
Our home for 3 nights is the POUSADA VILA VICOSA – don Joao IV, a wonderfully restored 16th century building,
formerly the REAL CONVENTO DAS CHAGAS DE CRISTO (Convent of Christ’s Wounds), where royal ladies of the
Court of BRAGANCA, the Royal Household of Portugal, came to “contemplate”. Huge and elegant, with a
labyrinth of rooms and marble throughout, it has been refitted to be comfortable as well. Our large
bedroom suite with its canopied beds opens to a private balcony overlooking the gardens, and of course,
a marble bath. Our evening meal at the pousada was sumptuous.
Continue...
This trip to Spain / Portugal was made March 7 – 23, 2003 by a New York State couple.
Your comments are welcome.
|
|
