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Tues. 3/18
OPORTO is the second largest city in Portugal – a bustling metropolis crowded on a steep hillside
bisected by the DOURO RIVER. We emerge from the heavy slow traffic to a modern hotel for a 2 hour
lecture on the history and arts of this Douro region. Our professor is a last minute replacement from
Lisbon for a scheduled professor purported to be ill, when, voila! The original appears well and able.
The misunderstanding eventually cleared up, Portuguese style, the replacement wins out and the
interesting lecture continues.
After a delicious buffet lunch at the hotel, we enjoy an overview
of the city by bus, and tour of the prestigious PALACIO DA BOLSA, seat of the Oporto
Chamber of Commerce and Industry. One opulently decorated room leads to another, culminating in a
grand hall done entirely in exotic Moorish tile. This is the region of port wine, produced from grapes
grown exclusively on the dedicated mountains to the east. The wine was formerly transported by special
boats on the Douro to be aged in barrels in riverside caves in Oporto. We toured the SANDEMAN caves and
tasted the special ports produced only in this area..
Driving into the hill country, we came to the
grape growing area with its narrow terraces carved into the almost perpendicular mountainsides reached
only by narrow, twisted roads set in a dizzying pattern through the vineyards. It is almost unimaginable
how people can live and toil perched tentatively on these slopes. The beauty, however, is breathtaking.
Our pousada for 2 nights is VINTAGE HOUSE, an old port lodge on the banks of the River Douro in the tiny
village of PINHAO. Our charming room has a balcony overlooking the river with a backdrop of vineyard
covered hillsides. How romantic!
Wed. 3/19
Despite wanting to continue with the group today, the anticipation of “mal de mer” on today’s lengthy
schedule , I opted to remain in PINHAO. Such a gorgeous sunny day beckoned my wandering the village and
environs, and relaxing at our beautifully situated and appointed hotel.
Many flowers are emerging and the grape vines are beginning to bud, adding to the perfect setting.
Ed had gone with the group on the all day excursion back to VILA REAL to visit the cathedral and enjoy a
wine tasting at a cellar. At LAMECO they visited a private mansion, the CASADA MATEUS, with a chapel and
gardens, climbing down 680 steps to the town square. All who went enjoyed the day immensely.
Thurs. 3/20
We left the port wine region this morning for the Galicia area of Spain to the north. We stopped in
BARCELUS where every Thursday is market day, a busy, colorful, festive display of everything from bread
and produce to clothing and furniture. Since this is another warm, sunny day the mood is even more pleasant.
We came upon several churches nearby that are so beautifully decorated, one with floor to ceiling
tile pictures. We lunched in the walled town of VALENCA and did our final shopping in Portugal before
crossing over into Spain. Our hotel tonight is the luxurious PARADOR DE BAIONA, a former walled
fortress almost surrounded by the sea in a cove of the Atlantic. High above the surf, we have marvelous
views as we walk atop the wall surrounding the hotel. Before dinner we are presented with a brief
lecture on this region.
Fri. 3/21
We leave beautiful Baiona today for our final destination. As we drive along the RIAS GALEGAS with frequent
vistas of the sea, we stop at the town of CAMBARRO, a resort in the summer. There is a quaint section of
town with very old stone houses crowding narrow alleys, and a large number of unusual structures called
“graineries”. These are small stone houses set high on stone piers for storing potatoes and corn, to
protect them from mice. They are also dotted throughout the countryside among the small farms.
Finally we arrive in Santiago where the awesome SANTIAGO DE COMPOSTELA awaits us.After a special lunch at
our 5 star HOSTAL DOS REIS CATOLICAS, we take our splendidly appointed room.
Our local guide, Isabel,
took us on a walking tour of old town, and especially the marvelous Cathedral of St. James, destination
of pilgrims for many centuries, on the PLAZA DO OBRADOR, just diagonal to our hotel. The original 12th Cent.
façade was replaced in the 18th Cent. by an even more opulent façade. And the main altar is almost
beyond description. We did all the things normally done by pilgrims and tourists – hugged the statue
of St. James behind the main altar, placed our hand into the depression caused by million of hands
over the centuries on a marble column of St. James (for respect) and touched our heads onto the memorial
column of the architect of the cathedral (to obtain knowledge).
We attended 7 PM mass at the cathedral
and afterwards witnessed a most extraordinary sight. A huge incense burner (about 5’ high) was
attached to a rope hanging from the center of the soaring ceiling. Then a group of about 6 men pulled
on the rope from the side, causing the incense burner to swing back and forth across the church right
in front of the main altar. The arc rose higher and higher spewing incense as a chant was being sung.
Again and again the burner passed right in front of us for several minutes before being allowed to
slow and be disconnected. A most amazing feat. Outside the cathedral a “peace” march and rally was
forming, with thousands of mostly university students carrying candles, placards, chanting anti war
slogans as loudspeakers blared anti war speeches. We have found that the TV in our room shows programs
in a variety of languages, including news shows, but the CNN English is blacked out and the concierge
tells us that it is because o the war. Interesting!
Sat. 3/22
We had much of today free to explore at leisure. We revisited the cathedral and attended a pilgrims’
mass at noon concelebrated by the archbishop with a number of other priests. This city, which often hosts
hundreds of thousands of visitors at a time, is relatively empty at present, making window shopping and
meandering the streets quite pleasant. With our group, we visited the amazing church of
Santa Maria del Sar, built in 1136. This small church fell victim to floods causing the walls to buckle
and lean outwards. In the 16th Cent, repairs were finally completed by adding huge flying buttresses
to the outside walls. However the inside pillars still lean outward giving an eerie appearance to the
church. We also visited the POBO GALEGO folk and historical museum, located in the old Convent of
Santo Domingo. Of great interest is the unique 3 section circular staircase leading to the galleries.
Tonight is our farewell dinner at our hotel, and a pleasant get together afterwards as another anti war
demonstration was carried on outside in the plaza.
Sun. 3/23
Time to return home with pleasant memories – Santiago – Madrid – JFK.
We have been blessed with near perfect weather this entire trip – only one day of light rain that didn’t
interfere with our activities. Our guide, Alex, was just wonderful – knowledgeable, conscientious,fun.
Our travel group was pleasant to be with. Manuel, our driver, was more than capable.
The tour itself exceeded expectations – beautiful scenery, castles, churches, historic old Roman
ruins and interesting architecture, wonderful paradas and pousadas to house us in elegant comfort,
excellent meals throughout (tho more food than needed), and a well organized group (of 26).
Back to start of trip...
This trip to Spain / Portugal was made March 7 – 23, 2003 by a New York State couple.
Your comments are welcome.
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